Marie Antoinette, Queen of France, had a passion for being adorned and coiffed with both taste and extravagance. This was particularly evident in her hairstyles, especially the “pouf” created by her famous hairdresser, Léonard. More precisely, Léonard-Alexis, a young man from Ariège who left his province to make his mark in Versailles and became the favorite hairdresser of the ladies of the Court. Often confused with his two brothers, here is his story.
The Beginnings of Léonard-Alexis in Hairdressing
Léonard-Alexis Autié was born in Pamiers, Ariège, in 1751. He had at least two younger brothers, Jean-François and Pierre. The son of domestic servants, Léonard began his career as a hairdresser in Bordeaux before moving to Paris and establishing himself there in 1769 at the young age of 18.
Despite his youth, his talent and innovative style quickly captivated the nobility, and women of high society eagerly sought his services. Within just a year, he became the most sought-after hairdresser at the Court, even though he did not hold an official title. In 1774, he created a new hairstyle, which he named the “coiffure en pouf.” The Duchess of Chartres was the first to wear it.
Léonard’s “Poufs”
This hairstyle was a true work of sculpture, crafted with wire and embellished with various accessories such as feathers, fabric, and gauze. The elaborate structure, which resembled scaffolding, was supported by the woman’s own hair. Marie Antoinette popularized the style when she wore it at the coronation of Louis XVI in June 1775.
The “pouf” soon became increasingly extravagant, reaching heights of up to one meter and featuring ever more inventive themes. Léonard-Alexis designed themes inspired by fruits, zodiac signs, and flowers. One notable example was the inclusion of potato flowers at Marie Antoinette’s request (complete with small water vials to keep the flowers fresh) to encourage the cultivation of potatoes during a famine. He also created designs inspired by ships, such as the famous “à la belle poule” style, honoring the frigate that defeated the British in the first naval battle of 1778.
However, the style had significant drawbacks. Ladies had to remain still for half a day while the artist worked, sleep sitting up for several days until dirt caused the style to collapse, and endure up to 5 kilograms of weight on their heads. They also required assistance to navigate doorways and climb into carriages.
The Academy of Hairdressing
In 1780, Léonard-Alexis took advantage of the retirement of the queen’s official hairdresser. Despite his somewhat difficult personality, Marie Antoinette insisted on having him. He became one of the few non-nobles to have close access to the queen, even accompanying her to her private apartments.
Léonard did not stop there. With his newfound financial means, he established the Academy of Hairdressing and brought his two brothers, also hairdressers, into the business. His younger brother, Jean-François, known as “Léonard the Younger,” became the queen’s personal hairdresser when Léonard-Alexis shifted his focus to his academy and theatrical projects. Unfortunately for Jean-François, he was tasked with delivering messages during the king’s failed escape to Varennes in 1791, a mission he botched. He was listed for execution by guillotine but, due to confusion with his elder brother and perhaps Léonard-Alexis’s influence, he avoided this fate. Jean-François died in Paris in 1820 after spending 20 years in exile in Russia.
As for Léonard-Alexis, he turned to theater and opera. Encouraged by the queen, he became an impresario until the Revolution, managing the “Théâtre de Monsieur.” During the Reign of Terror, he fled to Russia, returning to Paris only in 1814. He died six years later in 1820, leaving behind three daughters and a son.
